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Here are all of the pieces for the right stab. You can see the spars, skin, leading edge skin, control attachment pieces, etc. Pretty much the only piece that comes with holes already drilled is the skin. All others are measured and drilled during the building. Incidentally, the fin is almst identical to the stabs in construction and size with the only difference being the hardware fastened to each one.





This is the bottom side of the right stab. We use the skin holes to create the dimensions for the frame pieces. Then we cut the ribs out of lengths of channel and fasten them to the spars with angled metal which we make from stock. The ribs are the pieces running between the two long spars. One of the ribs is angled. Here I make sure the whole thing is dead straight, level, and flat.





You're looking at a completed stab that's cleco'd on both sides. That's why it's supported on the wood blocks. In this photo I'm fitting the leading edge skin to the stab. It doesn't come cut to length or with holes so you have to put it into its position under the skin holes, remove clecos one at a time and then drill the holes. When that side's finished you flip the whole thing over and the tricky part begins. This is a strong piece of metal and it must be folded over to the other side carefully or it will flex and dent. Ask me how I know this. When we rivet it all together the L. E. skin will be on the outside of the skins.





Here's the stab frame epoxy primered and riveted together. It's ready for the skins. The angled small piece midpoint is the attachment for the stab strut which will come from the underside of the tailcone of the fuselage. Also notice the holes in the triangular pieces in the corners. These correspond to holes in the skin and they'll let me access the nuts that hold the control hinges on. The triangle pieces are doublers to reinforce the area.





Here are all the parts drilled to final size, deburred, scuffed to help hold primer, cleaned and primered. The skins are only primered where ribs attach. When we rivet, we'll use more epoxy chromate on all the pieces and rivets. This stuff prevents corrosion and does a fantastic job of "gluing" the pieces together.





One side on the primered frame...ready to install other one and rivet!





Leading edge in place and ready to turn over. I made a jig that has several wooden cutouts that are the shape of the installed skin, kind of a long "U". We use it with strap clamps to encourage the skin to go to the right place with grace.





And at last! This is what it's all about. A completed stabilizer with elevator attached. This the bottom side of the right stab. The angled elevator end will allow the rudder to travel to the right when they're both in place.

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